To Points South

We boarded our bus early to ride down to Masada, the mountaintop fortress where a group of zealous Jews made their final stand against the Romans. In 73 C.E., when it was obvious that there was no hope for them to prevail, they took their own lives rather than be captured by the Romans. For many years Masada has been an important symbol for Israelis of Jews standing strong and sacrificing themselves for their independence in the Land. As I wrote the other day about Yad va-Shem, Israelis are beginning to reassess their commitment to strength at all costs and are recognizing some of the more ambivalent aspects of the symbolism of Masada. For example, the Israeli Defense Forces used to have their final swearing-in at the top of the Masada but have since abandoned this practice and the symbolism it suggests.

The top of Masada, needless to say, is breathtaking, with views over the Dead Sea and the Judean Desert where the first Patriarchs and Matriarchs dwelled. There is a beautiful new cable car that nearly all of us took advantage of but a brave (foolhardy?) group, led by Jeff Alper, braved the legendary snake path on foot.

Our guide, Raya, was part of the original excavation team as a student in the 1960's under the direction of famed Israeli archaeologist Yigal Yadin. We toured the fabulous remains and then continued on to Ein Gedi, the lush Biblical oasis where David hid from Saul and whose beauty is invoked in the Song of Songs. At a waterfall in Ein Gedi we celebrated a renewal of vows for two of our couples - 30 years for Phil Rosenberg and Penny Levin and 25 years for Robert and Amy Goldberg-Alberts as hyraxes ran on the rocks above. On our way out of the park, a pack of ibexes ran across the road right in front of our bus.

Next we went to the Dead Sea, so named because nothing can live in its intensely salty waters and the lowest point on earth, 1200 feet below sea level. The salt and minerals dissolved in the water are so concentrated that it's impossible to sink. Many of the first-timers didn't believe that you could really float without any effort and were amazed when the Dead Sea actually worked exactly as advertised. We floated and giggled like children and floated some more. Then many people went over to a part of the beach where there are famed mud deposits that are supposed to rejuvenate the skin. They coated themselves with thick black mud as I headed up from the beach with the sound of their laughter ringing in my ears...