Toward the Rabbinic Period

Our itinerary has been structured around the core Reconstructionist concept of understanding Judaism as the evolving religious civilization of the Jewish people and, with some exceptions, to this point our focus has primarily been on the period of Jewish history when the Jews lived in Israel under their own sovereignty, whether visiting the Dead Sea region (whose inhospitable terrain gave rise to the stories of the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah), Ein Gedi (where David hid from Saul and setting for the Biblical Song of Songs), Masada (final stand of a group of Jewish zealots in the face of a Roman seige in 73 C.E.), seeing the Dead Sea Scrolls (recorded by a sectarian group at Qumran around the 2nd century B.C.E.), or of course visiting the Old City of Jerusalem and touring the Temple Walls. Now we are headed out of Jerusalem toward the north, toward the Galilee (in Hebrew: Galil), which became the center of rabbinic activity following the destruction of the Temple in 70 C.E. and the cradle of Rabbinic Judaism.

It's worth noting that classic Zionist ideology minimized the significance of Jewish historical development between the fall of the Temple in 70 and the resurgence of aliyah in the late 19th century, as though Jewish history were only a litany of passive victimization when the Jews aren't living strong and independent in their land. To be sure there was plenty of suffering but there was plenty of success and innovation as well, and Judaism and Jewish history continued to evolve in creative and dynamic ways following the year 70. Judaism as it exists today is a Diaspora religion and the founding of the State of Israel has posed some interesting issues and challenges - what it means, for example, to say, 'Next year in Jerusalem' - that are still being worked out today. Our trip affords us the opportunity to trace the further development of Jewish history in the Land of Israel as we head up north for the next stage of our trip.

On the way out of Jerusalem we stopped at Har Herzl, the cemetery where Israel's soldiers and other important figures in the history of the State are buried. We visited the graves of Theodor Herzl, Yitzchak Rabin, Golda Meir, and other prominent leaders, and paid our respects to hundreds of less famous and renowned soldiers who bravely gave their lives in the cause of defending the State. Near the grave of Yoni Netanyahu (older brother of Benjamin Netanyahu, graduate of Cheltenham High School (class of '64), and hero of the famed raid on the Entebbe) we gathered to say Kaddish in recognition of these brave and heroic sacrifices, and sang Hatikvah.

We headed north to Beit Alfa where a 6th century synagogue was uncovered in the 1920's with beautiful - but idolatrous! - mosaic floors depicting the sacrifice of Isaac, but also the symbols of the zodiac and a figure of the Greek sun god Helios. From there we went to Beit She'an where there are fabulous ruins of a 3rd century Roman town called Scythopolis. As we climbed back toward the bus the skies, which had been been stormy and threatening all day, suddenly opened up and we dashed the last steps of the way through driving rain and hail. But the sun came back out later and as we drove by the Sea of Galilee we recited the blessing for the gorgeous rainbow that appeared over the lake.